Cooking Up a Storm, edited by Marcelle Bienvenu, is a compendium of the "Exchange Alley" recipe exchange column from the New Orleans Times-Picayune. The column began as a way for displaced New Orleanians, and those still in the rebuilding city, to reclaim recipes lost during Hurricane Katrina. Every recipe is preceded by a brief paragraph explaining the dish's importance, either to a specific person who requested it, or in the culinary history of the city, or as a local restaurant's most-favored menu item. The stories are as diverse and varied as the people and cultures who make up New Orleans, and more than one, I'm not ashamed to admit, made me a little weepy. I'm honestly considering cooking my way through the entire book. You know, as a selfless tribute. Because what could I possibly get out of making things like Louisiana Crab and Corn Bisque, Irma Thomas's Macaroni and Cheese, or the Palace Cafe's White Chocolate Bread Pudding?

I know, right? In any case, by mere chance I volunteered at my last Jaycee's meeting to bring the snack for the meeting this Thursday, so I'm making the first recipe in Cooking Up a Storm (not counting the cocktails--oh, yes, there's a whole section of cocktails. Sazerac, anyone?): Better than Better Cheddar. 'Better Cheddar' is evidently a New Orleans party must-have, provided by Langenstein's, an fancy grocery store that specializes in delicious prepared foods. This particular spread involves shredded smoked Gouda, shredded sharp white cheddar, scallions, walnuts, and homemade Creole mayonnaise. Heart attack on a cracker! I can't wait.

What do you think something like that would be good on? I'm thinking Ritz crackers. Or maybe a sliced baguette. Thoughts?

Posted by Louisa Edwards at 11:29 AM